Suffragettes and Secret Agents

This thread is all about my Edwardian outfit which I created to accompany my husband and his fellows of the 3rd (Foot and Mouth) Regiment (Carry On Up The Khyber film). I have decided to enter it into the Your Wardrobe Unlock’d annual costume competition. Two eras were chosen as the competition stating point – 1812 and 1912. From here we can create any costume so long as it can be rooted back to one of these eras. It can be a perfect period reproduction or a flight of fantasy...

I was really torn between the two eras since I am a huge fan of the Regency and had events to attend for both. The fabric I had earmarked for a personal project would also be suitable for either. In the end I opted for 1912 as this was the era I had absolutely no costume for and the event I needed to attend was first on the calendar. I thought this would be a good chance to do some new research and try a different look for me. Despite being enveloped by ’Titanic-fever’ as a teenager, I never had an opportunity to create a costume for the period (although I did spend a
majority of that winter in a long skirt and long sleeve blouse which vaguely resembled Kate Winslet’s ‘flying dress’). I also felt a 1912 ensemble could be adapted easily for the numerous Steampunk events I attend.

Inspiration and Style
The particular event I was due to attend was an Edwardian weekend at Crich Tramway Museum (alright, I know the eagle eyed among you will know that the Edwardian era actually ended in 1910, but many academics and costumiers run the era up until the outbreak of war in 1914 when fashions really began to change dramatically). At the event, we ladies were to take on the role of Suffragettes while our chaps would portray the local military draughted in to unchain us from our railings!

I decided a smart, lightly tailored walking suit would be the ideal outfit as I wanted to portray a fashionable lady of means taking an interest in the political and social situations of the day. Someone a bit like Cybil Crawley in Downton Abbey. The image I had in mind was not dissimilar to Kate Winslet’s boarding outfit at the beginning of Titanic. I already had a serviceable high neck blouse, plus I wanted a big hat! If I was doing Edwardian, I wanted a big hat!
I started by looking at screen shots from the film and even found some great detail photos taken at an exhibition of costumes. This is the site I use for really good film costume images (warning, you will lose an entire day and return with a list of projects as long as your arm!). On closer inspection of these images I decided I didn’t like the very narrow, almost fishtail cut of the skirt. I felt it was just a bit too high fashion and therefore wouldn’t make the outfit very versatile for portraying a few years earlier.

Another source of inspiration was this family photo depicting my great grandparents in 1914. I loved the button detail on the skirt apron. This was very similar to fashion plates published by Your Wardrobe Unlock’d in its 1912 Fashion Forecast article. It was here I also found inspiration for the jacket. I opted for a simple, princess-line cut, but added a stylish twist with the single button double breast and curved cut away hem which echoed the skirt apron.
The cut of the skirt was a simple A-line with darts to keep it fitted over the hips. These appear to be evident in many of the fashion plates. I deliberated a fair bit over how narrow the skirt should be. The general look is fairly straight and although I didn’t want a hobble skirt, I wanted the outfit to be passable for earlier years. It also needed to be practical as we tend to camp at these events. In the end the width of the fabric dictated the amount of flair and I think it turned out rather well.

Fabric and Trimming
The fabric I chose was a lovely, suit-weight wool in a dusky mauve colour with little flecks of blue. One side was a much deeper colour and although the wrong side technically, it was still usable. Plus it matched my purple shoes better!
For the trimmings I followed the advice in Your Wardrobe Unlock’d’s 1912 fashion forecast which suggested rows of machine stitching to create an interesting border. I double threaded the needle with grey and blue to add more definition to the stitching. I was pressed for time and didn’t want
a trimming that would take ages.
The buttons are hammered metal and were given to me by my husband’s grandmother. I don’t suppose they are particularly authentic, but they worked well and are certainly evocative of turn of the century ‘arts and craft’ style.
I like how the simplicity of the trimming compliments the sleek, tailored styling and how it swirls round the body sinuously. Any other heavier, applied braid would have been over powering, I think.

The Hat
My huge hat was bought from a fashion chainstore at a very reasonable clearance price. It is made from a spiral of petersham ribbon with a wired brim. Period hats appear to have been adorned with feathers and ribbon right out to the brim. To hide the more modern crown and brim shape I scrunched up scraps of black chiffon and inserted cockades of purple and grey striped ribbon. I then added two black ostrich feathers for good measure.

Steampunk Secret Agent

To give a slightly more Steampunk feel to the outfit I made a waistcoat from a lovely blue-grey silk which worked really well with the muted shade of the wool. It has pewter buttons and lacing at the back to pull it in.
My inspiration for this came from the TV series Warehouse 13 and the character H.G.Wells – a turn of the century secret agent (and of course the lesser known sister of the famous writer). In the pseudo- period scenes she is often seen wearing a long skirt with blouse and waistcoat which laces at the back. I’m not normally a fan of masculine elements in female costume, but this
just looks neat and elegant.

From a construction point of view, the silhouette was remarkably simple, but the design features make it appear more complex. The apron front is fake and simply attached to the right side seam of the skirt to give the illusion of a wrapover when it is in fact just a basic A-line. This was a relief really as I was pressed for time to get this outfit ready ( I think one of the worst things about sewing for a living is finding time to make stuff for yourself and then not feeling guilty about it!). The buttons are stitched through both layers to hold the apron in place and stop it gaping open. The jacket again is a simple cut, princess line and double breasted, despite using only one button. The asymetrical curving hem adds a stylish twist and perfectly echoes the cut of the skirt.

And finally, a small homage to my great grandparents....

It has been really fun to rekindle my interest in early twentieth century clothing and even more exciting to actually be able to wear it. From the perspective of an historian it's interesting to compare the Edwardian style to the Victorian and Regency clothes I wear. Being of slim build I wasn't comfortable wearing unfitted clothing with masculine styling. I made sure to keep the jacket nipped in at the waist. If I made the jacket again I would cut the collar a lot more open, but in general I am very happy with the silhouette and I feel the overall look is very elegant.

Steampunk for Kelmarsh

Just a quick update with some sneaky peeks of what I've been making ready for Kelmarsh.

These will all be for sale on the Sunday (if I have space!) and I can make to order.

First is a taffeta bustle skirt with apron drapery, peplum and lapets in 'brazil'. The skirt and the bustle are seperate garments so can be worn seperately for maximum flexability.


Then there's a gorgeous little victorian style jacket in pink silk with black lace trimmings and ribbon. The photos also give you a little glimpse of the English silk waistcoat underneath and the victorian style blouse.

Festival of History 17th/18th July 2010

I am very pleased to announce that I shall be taking Blue Lady Couture to the annual Festival of History at Kelmarsh Hall. With thanks to an old friend I hope to have a selection of items for sale and on display including ladies and gents waistcoats, skirts, corsets and jackets.

I am now frantically sewing to try and get as much made as possible!

Costume updates

Just a quick note to let you know that I'm gradually adding to my costume pages and it has been updated today with some lovely Edwardian garments. Keep checking back as there's still more to come!

Some unexpected gems discovered.

While I was on holiday I didn't go out on the hunt for costume specifically, but I always keep an eye out and it's awlays nice to stumble across some delicious examples to add to my research library.

My first discovery was tucked away in a cupboard of all places in the delightful National Trust property of Townend. Out of the light, but such a shame! I wasn't able to get any photos sadly, but sheltered in the dark was an 1830s wedding gown in delightful sprigged silk. Although undoubtedly faded, the silk was still crisp and would likely have been a rich cream or even a primrose yellow (a popular colour of the period). The gown itself was simple in style with a waistband about an inch wide at the fashionable height between underbust and natural waist. Full leg o' mutton sleeves taper down to tight cuffs and the skirt falls in folds from the gathered waistline. The most interesting and distinguishing feature of the gown was the capelet style collar. Two tiers which tapered down to rounded points extended to the waistline, edged in piping. Although indistinguishable, I suspect the capelet extends into a single rounded point at the centre back.

Blue Lady Couture

I wanted to take a moment to introduce you to my new website http://www.blueladycouture.co.uk/. I shall run it as a sister site alongside Joanna's Bridal, but the focus shall be more on costume pieces. There will also be an online shop where you can have garments made to order and delivered as well as my fully bespoke service if you want something extra special.

There will be lots more added on over the coming weeks and months, but here's a quick example of the outfits I made for the 2009 Hallowe'en Whitby Gothic Festival. The first picture was featured in the Whiby Gazette newspaper.

Bronte back on our screens!

It was with great interest that I heard about not just one, but two new Bronte films currently in production!

BBC Films are revisiting Jane Eyre, with Mia Wasikowska (Alice in Wonderland) as the heroine, while Film Four are planning a remake of Wuthering Heights.

I've always had an interest in the tragic Bronte sisters since visiting the pretty Haworth parsonage where they lived and experiencing the bleak and windswept moors that inspired them. Both tales could certainly be described as gloomy, almost foreboding. The opening chapters of Jane Eyre certainly set the atmosphere. I never finished Wuthering Heights as a child. It's a far cry from the almost sickly sweetness and light of Jane Austen. As much as I am a 'Janeite', I can only admit that there has most definately been an Austen overload in the past few years. I think it's interesting how the fun and frivolity of Austen suited the mood of a care free modern society, but as recession and money worries loom over us, these darker tales of the mid-nineteenth century are the order of the day.

You can read more about the films and see a sneaky peak of the new Jane Eyre at http://entertainment.timesonline.co.uk/tol/arts_and_entertainment/film/article7106879.ece

I am a Steampunk!

Just when I didn't think I could find time to indulge in anymore hobbies and interests, I find myself right in the middle of one!

I stumbled across Steampunk quite by accident at the end of last summer. I'd heard the word banded about on various forums and websites, but it wasn't until the Victorian Steampunk Society came to Lincoln for their first annual UK convival, that I realised what it was all about. After a little research I soon realised that I was a Steampunk and all my nostalgical whims and fancies fitted right in!

Initially an offshoot from the Goth scene, Steampunk claimed a much stronger historical interest, inspired by science, technology and adventure as much as Victorian romanance and gothicism. Steampunk is particularly influenced by authors such as Jules Verne and H.G. Wells, capturing the Victorian fascination with technology and using it to push the boundaries of science and reality. For many, the ideal Steampunk world is characterised by a Victorian London below a sky filled with airships taking travellers and adventurers to the majestic realms of Africa and India, or even beyond the stars to the moon and Mars. Some even claim the ability to bend the laws of time. Of course this is all conducted with the most polite and genteel of Victorian mannerisms, also impeccably dressed and sporting the latest brassy gadgetry to get you out of any fix.

The costuming is such an important part and everyone has their own individual take on it depending on who they're portraying, what the occasion is and quite how far they visualise the Steampunk world. For some, it's a passion for Victoriana, mixing more modern styles with corsets, bustles and top hats. Others go for a more military look using British Empire regimental and expedition styles often accessorising with pith helmets. Then there are the airship crews, the airship pirates, engineers, mad scientists, time travellers, librarians, historians.....
That's the thing about the Steampunk genre. There are so many takes on it and you can bend it to wherever your interest lies, whether you see yourself as a Neo-Victorian, retro-futurist, dieselpunk, cyberpunk or are just plain enthusiastic about steam engineering technology.

It's a funny old world. I was brought up spending my holidays being taken round museums and heritage railways. Combined with my natural love of costume and the past and a husband equally enthusiastic as well as being a converted and confessed steam addict. It was only natural, I suppose, but I couldn't hide my enthusiasm for turning my needle and thread towards this exciting new outlet. The magic of course being the fun and the only restriction, the imagination. Steampunk isn't period perfect, so the creativity can run riot with colours and fabrics that capture the spirit of Victorian adventure and discovery, but with modern twists or even the essence of a different period. You could wear an eigteenth century pirate coat with first world war breeches and a victorian blouse and waspie corset.

To that end I'm really excited to announce that I'm going to be concentrating a lot more on producing Steampunk clothing alongside my bridal wear. I'm already working on some classic neo-Victorian crisp cotton and lace blouses with ladies silk waistcoats inspired by Dorcas Lane's costumes in Larkrise to Candleford. There will also be corsets and skirts influenced by late nineteenth century dress as well as more regency style bolero jackets.

I can't wait to share the pictures of the finished articles in anticipation of holding a trade stall at the second Lincoln convival.

A Year of Medieval Magic

My latest entry is following on from fellow blogger Amanda Beth who is running a Maid Marian inspired festival. So being a fellow enthusiast for medieval maidens, I thought I would share a few pictures of medieval inspired outfits that I've made this past year.

The first set of pictures are from some of my brides this year who all went for a medieval theme. One got married in a Scottish castle, and the other at Tintagel, the supposed site of Camelot! At the moment I can only upload the photos from the Scottish wedding, so my apologies and I'll upload the others as soon as I can!

The photos below come from 'The Lady of Shallot' film which I had great fun working on and the costumes were a fantastic mix of typical medieval, through Renaissance, to even Tudor inspiration. The inspiration was all taken from Pre-Raphaelite paintings, which in turn were inspired by Tennyson's poems and tales of Arthurian legend. Ok, so Robin Hood and Maid Marian are perhaps of a later period, but I can quite easily see these gowns in Maid Marian's wardrobe!

Beautiful Bath and the World Record Breaking Regency Promenade

It's been such a long time since I last posted, in fact I hadn't realised quite how long until just now! I have been so unbelievably busy that this literally has been my first proper weekend off in about six months!

We made the most of the remaining English summer (which thankfully stayed blissfully warm after a year of planning!) and headed to the beautiful, Georgian city of Bath. It was of course no coincidence that weekend coincided with the 9th annual Jane Austen Festival. A twelvemonth of regency costume planning was finally realised in the last six weeks.

The day of the grand opening parade dawned mild and sunny, better than forecast, and we headed into the city centre with much anticipation. Our inititial qualms of looking 'odd' dissipated as we parked up and spotted numerous others stepping out of cars and adjusting their bonnets. We made our way through the beautiful and imposing buildings, across elegant squares and through the crowds of Saturday shoppers with their mix of admiring and quizzical stares and joined the growing throng of Janeites outside the Pump Room. My husband was also able to relax as he realised the number of men present far exceeded his expectations. The ladies, myself in particular, glanced about admiring the various gowns and bonnets inbetween the constant click and flash of cameras. We were very soon approached by a lady and her daughter who enquired after me through my Sense and Sensibility Forum name. They were dressed in delightful cotton gowns complimented by silk bonnets with a ruched crown and adorned with peacock feathers.



I should really take a moment to describe my own outfit incase the pictures don't do it justice (as pictures seldom do!). I wore a self-striped white cotton gown which was simply gathered across the bodice with little short gathered sleeves. As I was short on time and knew little would be seen of the upper gown, I kept it completely simple and made my spencer the 'pies d'resistance'. The spencer was made from a beautiful silk remnant that I had picked up many months ago and I adapted the pattern from my bridal spencer by adding a shawl collar and 'petals' to the top of the sleeves. i added contrast piping for a really striking effect (and am now in love with piping!)I had numerous sources of inspiration, but can really pin-point Lydia's 'going to Brighton spencer' from the '95 P&P adaptation for my fabric choice and one of Lizzie's spencers for the 'petals' also from the '95 version. My bonnet was made by cutting a full brimmed straw hat to shape and trimming it with white and dark blue. I was most delighted when one young lady ran up to me and excitedly exclaimed 'Georgiana Darcy! Yes your outfit is so hers!' before dashing off into the crowd again!

My husband's outfit is my first foray into tailored menswear and I am quite pleased with the result although naturally there are things I should like to improve on. The jacket, made from a lovely, soft wool used an adapted commercial pattern. I removed the waist seam and redrafted the tail section to give a more authentic look, although I stress look is what I was going for. The drop-front trousers are from the same commercial pattern and were made from a heavy linen which was dyed just two days before we left (after my husband felt he couldn't be seen wearing white trousers!). The patterns for his crisp, linen shirt and sumtuous, silk waistcoat were drafted by myself.

Now, back to the festival and we were soon joined by two other ladies from the Sense and Sensibility Forum who had come from Sweden and Australia. We had a few moments to chat briefly and make our introductions before it was announced to be eleven of the clock and the column of finely clad ladies and gentlemen moved off through the streets of Bath. It seemed to be much to the delight of the public who photographed every turn of hem and flutter of feathers, although one individual thought it necessary to pip his horn and curse loudly as we held up the traffic crossing one of the busy streets. Shame on him! I sincerely hope he had to wait to all 409 of us had passed! The uncultured man was soon quite forgot as we entered the Assembly Rooms to be counted for the World Record Attempt. It was a relief to get out of the increasingly warm sun (a parasol is in order for next time!) and as we waited for the long line to gather in the ballroom we were entertained by a group of young ladies who performed a number of country dances. Soon we were all present and the ten minute 'gathering' began. The record was broken with much cheering and applause and the press snapping and filming from the minstrels' gallery above.

We left the Assembly Rooms and followed the procession to the Royal Crescent were a 'gigapan' photograph had been proposed. As we lined up at the railings over looking the park and admiring the view over the Bath hills we realised it was after midday and the sun was becoming quite overwhelming. Starting to feel fatigued many, ourselves included, abandoned the grandeur of the Royal Crescent and continued the procession to the welcome shade and refreshments at Queen's Square where we reclined under the trees for a while.

All too soon it was time to temporarily say goodbye to our new friends as they made their way to various planned events and we went in search of sustenance. We found it in the lovely tea rooms at the Jane Austen Centre with real leaf tea and delicious cakes! Feeling revived we headed back out into the town exchanging friendly greetings as we passed other Janeites and frequently stopping for photos and questions with the public. We headed back up to the crescent where we visited the lovely museum of Number One, where the house has been restored to it's Georgian grandeur and the curators and other visitors alike admired how well we looked in the setting! We whiled away the remainder of the afternoon relaxing in the park before heading back to Queen's Square to meet some of our new friends for supper. We made our way to the famous Sally Lunn's. It was lovely to sit down for a meal in costume and we opted to keep our bonnets on (which we believed to be appropriate ettiquette). It was equally delightful when Mrs. Chancey of Sense and Sensibility Patterns (and to whom we are grateful for organising the tour for our overseas friends) and her family were seated at the next table. Another group of costumed Janeites soon followed and a lovely atmosphere settled over the dining room as darkness fell outside.

Eventually it was time to part company although we made promises to catch up on the morrow if time allowed before we all quitted Bath for home. And so we dispersed, a flicker of white hem and the gleam of top hat and cane amongst the Saturday night revellers like ghosts from the pages of history hurrying through the streets of Bath once more.

Something for all costumiers.....

Here's a site that might be of interest to many a dressmaker, costumier or bridal designer.

Oodles of hints and tips and inspiration to perfect those period pieces! I wouldn't normally promote a subscribable online magazine because I would never normally join myself, but I simply jumped at this as it simply is a wonderful resource!

I hope you enjoy!

Update on 1850s evening gown.

Well we had a busy and successful film shoot at the weekend involving about twenty actors in full period costume. It was a wonderful sight in a stunning setting.

Here are some pictures of me in my dress. Hopefully you can see from my previous post that I altered the berha (which was a last minute idea) as I decided it was too big and didn't flatter me at all.











Considering I was wearing a heavy petticoat, corset etc, I found the outfit surprisingly comfortable although some of the other girls complained about their corset all weekend. I really found it quite bearable and the corset very supportive. I really didn't want to take it off at the end of the shoot! The most uncomfortable part of the dress was the collar/shoulder which was quite tight around the upper arm and restricted movements, although one girl played the piano delightfully for us.

Please checkout www.wagscreen.co.uk for more information on the film!

1850s Evening Gown

Here's a sneaky peek of my 1850s evening gown for The Lady of Shalott film adaptation. It is made from the loveliest blue silk with a pretty floral design. It is then trimmed with satin bow and delicate lace. I can't wait to wear it for filming!

New Year, New Projects

Well the year is drawing to a close on what can only be described as a truly bleak and bitterly cold mid-winters day. It only serves more poignantly to look forward to the coming spring and everything the new year has to offer. I'm not usually one for new year regulations, but I did make a consious effort to control my finances and generally be more positive about my situation. Afterall, they say good things come to those who wait, and wait I have done. The final quarter of this year has been so blessedly busy that I finally feel I have achieved something which is buoying me smoothly into 2009.

I thought today I would make a list of projects I intend to complete in the coming months and it will be interesting to see how they materialise.

Fistly, 1850s evening gown and associated undergarments for the final part of the Lady of Shalott film to be shot in March.
I then have my first bridal commission to start, which requires the toile to be ready in March although the completed gown is not needed until August.
My husband and I are determined to attend the Jane Austen Festival in Bath in September for which we both need a Regency walking ensemble.
Then in October we plan to attend Whitby Goth Festival with a good friend. I've promised to make her and myself a Victorian, gothic inspired outfit and something suitable for my husband.

Crikey, I shall be a busy bee! And that's providing I am not over run with comissions through the business!

I now have an online shop for my tiaras!

www.joannasbridal.etsy.co.uk

or you can link to it through www.joannasbridal.co.uk

Winter

Today winter threw it's chilly mantle over us as snow fell softly from the grey sky, settling like icing sugar on the roofs, roads and gardens. It glowed mystically in the cold dawn light as the sun crept slowly over the distant horizon. A family of blackbirds trooped about boisterously on the lawn and the bunnies kept their paws inside their hutch, content to munch their breakfast in the dry whilst watching me wrestle with the new bale of hay.

1900 Blouse

Here is a little mini-project I've been doing for Orchard House Wardrobe. It's a circa 1900 blouse to form part of a range of outfits for a local college. I used the Laughing Moon School Mistress pattern (I think!), but I had to alter the design to make it back opening at the insistence of the student who refuses to wear a front opening blouse and I added an extra pleat to help fit her size better.

It is made from a pretty cotton print and is trimmed with real vintage laces!

Tiara commission

I keep a few tiara samples in my friend's shop and a customer commissioned this piece from me.

I call it the 'Lillian' as the wirework is shaped into a lily

The Delights of the Season

I am one of those people who loves to enjoy the frivolities of any given season and you can probably tell from my previous entries that I love Autumn the most. For some reason, this particular autumn has been full of wonderful things to see and I have had the opportunity to capture them on camera. So as November comes to a close and my thoughts change from Autumn's russet glow to to December's magical festiveness, I thought I'd share my memories of this years beatiful season....



The moon looking eerie through the trees in our back garden.


Bonfire party at our friends farm - look at the size of it compared to the man!


The excellent firework display they always put on and perfectly captured by my clever husband!


We also delighted in hot baked potatoes, barbecued sausages and and a delicious hog roast!


Enjoying an evening indoor with my little fluffs!


Enjoying roaring log fires on holiday.


Beautiful views at Whitby


And the abbey looking haunted and mysterious


Our first wedding anniversary!

Remember

They died in their thousands,
As far as the eye could see,
Unaware of what was happening,
They plundered on instinctively.

In filthy harsh conditions,
They lived for many a day,
In damp and muddy trenches,
No escape to far away.

On the eleventh hour of the eleventh day,
The war came to a close,
An almighty silence reigned the land,
For two minutes it's supposed.

Upon the ground where the dead had lain,
A little flower did grow,
Unlike any other,
It's colour redder than the rose.

They grew in their thousands,
As far as the eye could see,
Their colour of the shedded blood,
That was no more to be.