Suffragettes and Secret Agents

This thread is all about my Edwardian outfit which I created to accompany my husband and his fellows of the 3rd (Foot and Mouth) Regiment (Carry On Up The Khyber film). I have decided to enter it into the Your Wardrobe Unlock’d annual costume competition. Two eras were chosen as the competition stating point – 1812 and 1912. From here we can create any costume so long as it can be rooted back to one of these eras. It can be a perfect period reproduction or a flight of fantasy...

I was really torn between the two eras since I am a huge fan of the Regency and had events to attend for both. The fabric I had earmarked for a personal project would also be suitable for either. In the end I opted for 1912 as this was the era I had absolutely no costume for and the event I needed to attend was first on the calendar. I thought this would be a good chance to do some new research and try a different look for me. Despite being enveloped by ’Titanic-fever’ as a teenager, I never had an opportunity to create a costume for the period (although I did spend a
majority of that winter in a long skirt and long sleeve blouse which vaguely resembled Kate Winslet’s ‘flying dress’). I also felt a 1912 ensemble could be adapted easily for the numerous Steampunk events I attend.

Inspiration and Style
The particular event I was due to attend was an Edwardian weekend at Crich Tramway Museum (alright, I know the eagle eyed among you will know that the Edwardian era actually ended in 1910, but many academics and costumiers run the era up until the outbreak of war in 1914 when fashions really began to change dramatically). At the event, we ladies were to take on the role of Suffragettes while our chaps would portray the local military draughted in to unchain us from our railings!

I decided a smart, lightly tailored walking suit would be the ideal outfit as I wanted to portray a fashionable lady of means taking an interest in the political and social situations of the day. Someone a bit like Cybil Crawley in Downton Abbey. The image I had in mind was not dissimilar to Kate Winslet’s boarding outfit at the beginning of Titanic. I already had a serviceable high neck blouse, plus I wanted a big hat! If I was doing Edwardian, I wanted a big hat!
I started by looking at screen shots from the film and even found some great detail photos taken at an exhibition of costumes. This is the site I use for really good film costume images (warning, you will lose an entire day and return with a list of projects as long as your arm!). On closer inspection of these images I decided I didn’t like the very narrow, almost fishtail cut of the skirt. I felt it was just a bit too high fashion and therefore wouldn’t make the outfit very versatile for portraying a few years earlier.

Another source of inspiration was this family photo depicting my great grandparents in 1914. I loved the button detail on the skirt apron. This was very similar to fashion plates published by Your Wardrobe Unlock’d in its 1912 Fashion Forecast article. It was here I also found inspiration for the jacket. I opted for a simple, princess-line cut, but added a stylish twist with the single button double breast and curved cut away hem which echoed the skirt apron.
The cut of the skirt was a simple A-line with darts to keep it fitted over the hips. These appear to be evident in many of the fashion plates. I deliberated a fair bit over how narrow the skirt should be. The general look is fairly straight and although I didn’t want a hobble skirt, I wanted the outfit to be passable for earlier years. It also needed to be practical as we tend to camp at these events. In the end the width of the fabric dictated the amount of flair and I think it turned out rather well.

Fabric and Trimming
The fabric I chose was a lovely, suit-weight wool in a dusky mauve colour with little flecks of blue. One side was a much deeper colour and although the wrong side technically, it was still usable. Plus it matched my purple shoes better!
For the trimmings I followed the advice in Your Wardrobe Unlock’d’s 1912 fashion forecast which suggested rows of machine stitching to create an interesting border. I double threaded the needle with grey and blue to add more definition to the stitching. I was pressed for time and didn’t want
a trimming that would take ages.
The buttons are hammered metal and were given to me by my husband’s grandmother. I don’t suppose they are particularly authentic, but they worked well and are certainly evocative of turn of the century ‘arts and craft’ style.
I like how the simplicity of the trimming compliments the sleek, tailored styling and how it swirls round the body sinuously. Any other heavier, applied braid would have been over powering, I think.

The Hat
My huge hat was bought from a fashion chainstore at a very reasonable clearance price. It is made from a spiral of petersham ribbon with a wired brim. Period hats appear to have been adorned with feathers and ribbon right out to the brim. To hide the more modern crown and brim shape I scrunched up scraps of black chiffon and inserted cockades of purple and grey striped ribbon. I then added two black ostrich feathers for good measure.

Steampunk Secret Agent

To give a slightly more Steampunk feel to the outfit I made a waistcoat from a lovely blue-grey silk which worked really well with the muted shade of the wool. It has pewter buttons and lacing at the back to pull it in.
My inspiration for this came from the TV series Warehouse 13 and the character H.G.Wells – a turn of the century secret agent (and of course the lesser known sister of the famous writer). In the pseudo- period scenes she is often seen wearing a long skirt with blouse and waistcoat which laces at the back. I’m not normally a fan of masculine elements in female costume, but this
just looks neat and elegant.

From a construction point of view, the silhouette was remarkably simple, but the design features make it appear more complex. The apron front is fake and simply attached to the right side seam of the skirt to give the illusion of a wrapover when it is in fact just a basic A-line. This was a relief really as I was pressed for time to get this outfit ready ( I think one of the worst things about sewing for a living is finding time to make stuff for yourself and then not feeling guilty about it!). The buttons are stitched through both layers to hold the apron in place and stop it gaping open. The jacket again is a simple cut, princess line and double breasted, despite using only one button. The asymetrical curving hem adds a stylish twist and perfectly echoes the cut of the skirt.

And finally, a small homage to my great grandparents....

It has been really fun to rekindle my interest in early twentieth century clothing and even more exciting to actually be able to wear it. From the perspective of an historian it's interesting to compare the Edwardian style to the Victorian and Regency clothes I wear. Being of slim build I wasn't comfortable wearing unfitted clothing with masculine styling. I made sure to keep the jacket nipped in at the waist. If I made the jacket again I would cut the collar a lot more open, but in general I am very happy with the silhouette and I feel the overall look is very elegant.